Yesterday we hoped on a bus and headed to Copacabana. Now I know what you are thinking – haven’t you already been there, and isn’t it a beach in Brazil? Well actually, the famous beach, which inspired the famous nightclub, which inspired the famous song, was actually named after a tiny town on the shore of Lake Titicaca. The significance of the town is its close proximity to the Isle de Sol (Island of the Sun) where the Incas believed they originated. So for Anna’s birthday we decided to head down there.
Copacabana is a 4 hour bus ride from La Paz on the southern end of Lake Titicaca. Lake Titicaca is huge, seriously it is really, really big. In places it is over 300m deep and when you are on it, you cannot see the other shore, it really feels like the ocean. It is so big the road can’t go around it so we had an amusing stop where we had to get off the bus, catch a ferry over and watch our bus, precariously and somewhat lopsidedly, come over on a barge.
Amazingly, this huge lake is just the remnant of a really truly massive lake. Several million years ago, a lake existed that covered most of Bolivia. The salt flats we visited in Southern Bolivia were created after the lake dried up!
We finally arrived at a (mostly) picturesque small town and after finding a place to spend the night and getting some much needed lunch, we found we were too late for the public ferry to the Isle de Sol. We found a private boat and tried to be able to go to the north of the island which we had heard was the best bit but there wasn’t even time for that so they said would take us to see the ruins at the south. We put-putted our way for 1.5 hours out to the island to arrive at a shear wall of land, with a set of stairs going up. It was there that the boat driver demanded more money, but we managed to convey that we had paid his boss the whole amount and he seemed ok with it – we just hoped he would be waiting for us when it was time to go back.
We were told to go up and they would meet us further south at “the temple ruins”. We headed up the seemingly endless set of stairs, which somewhat discouragingly kept turning towards the right, when we knew we had to somehow get to the left.
After various encounters with people selling souvenirs, donkeys, llamas, etc, we found a guy who could speak both English and Spanish who found us directions. We headed back the way we had come and found the goat track we needed to follow. Actually it was a sheep, donkey and llama track as we discovered as we made our way along it. We continued through an incredibly dry, dusty and boring landscape (although the view across the lake to the snow capped mountains was pretty special) until we finally saw our boat far, far below.
Between us and the boat was the “ruin of the temple”. It was pathetic, particularly the day after we had been to Tiwanaku. It may be old, but it just looked like an unkempt stone building. To add insult to injury, they made us pay to see it! We didn’t want to see it but it was the only way to the boat!
Finally we got back down and headed back the 1.5 hour trip to Copacabana. A little discouraged by the day, we decided to celebrate Anna’s birthday in style. When looking for a place to stay we had found a lovely looking hotel. Rooms were a bit pricey for us, but we went there for dinner and it was a fantastic meal. All of us loved our food and drinks so it was a very nice way to end the day.
Unfortunately Amy woke up very ill this morning. The return bus was a 1.30pm, so we spent a quiet morning making our way up the souvenir/handicrafts street and sitting in the sun eating popcorn. The popcorn here is really different. Honestly, each piece is at least 4 times the size of what we are used to. Of course, this being South America they pop it with some kind of sweet topping, but it isn’t too overwhelming and we enjoyed it.
Sitting for awhile afforded a great opportunity to do some people watching. For a reason we couldn’t figure out, heaps of the cars were decorated with fresh gladioli tied to the side mirrors and front grill – Dame Edna would be proud. Cholitas (the name for the Bolivian women in the traditional attire) bustled in all directions. They all carry things on their backs in kinds of sacks made from large square pieces of cloth (which they try to sell to us gringos as tablecloths). The contents could be the shopping, a load of potatoes, or more often than not, a child. They seem so efficient at carrying things that way.
Finally the bus came and we headed back to La Paz. I made friends with a nice American girl, Hannah who was sitting next to me on the bus and we all went and got Thai takeaway for dinner and brought it back to the hostel. If we were in Australia we probably wouldn’t consider it fantastic Thai, but after 4.5 weeks with no Asian flavours we loved it. Yesterday we also found salt and vinegar Pringles so a few of our cravings have been brought under control.
Amy headed up to bed and Anna and I went out to get some cash for the next few days when we saw one of the funniest sights – an off duty clown. He had taken off the hat, wig and nose but was still in the costume, complete with big floppy shoes as he wandered down the street munching on a snack. It made our night.
Bolivia has had its ups and downs, we have been freezing and hot, seen spectacular and boring sights but we have enjoyed it. Tomorrow we head to Peru!
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