We had a few issues getting our tour paid for, so were slightly concerned this morning about if we were on it or not, but sure enough we were. There had also been some issues about having an English speaking guide and they wanted us to pay extra but we were able to prove they had never told us of extra costs, so we have one without payment. We paid, collected our packs which were loaded on top of a 4 wheel drive and met the other people coming on our tour, Matt and Nida. They are both from Perth (Nida from Germany originally) and are really lovely.
We set off out of Tupiza and up into the hills. It was pretty cramped in the back of the truck but we were fine. Just outside of Tupiza we came across a really lovely sight, a caravan of donkeys being driven down to town. They were beautifully decorated, with little tassels on their ears and big lumps of salt on their backs. The caravan was at the end of a 3 month journey from the salt flats in the highlands, they bring the salt down to Tupiza, along with herbs that come from the highlands to sell, then make the journey back. It was a real treat seeing them.
Our first stop was this hugely high point where you could see the Valley of the Moon. It was amazingly weathered, a stunning sight!
From there we continued along really high mountain passes, we have spent most of the day at over 3,500m and are staying at 4,220m tonight. Our highest spot was 4,500m!
We stopped for lunch in a small town. It is all mud brick and thatch roof but solar powered (PV of course but I took a photo for you Dad). As we arrived they were sending out a herd of goats. After they had left, another herd, this time of kids (baby goats, not children) accompanied by a puppy were sent out. They were training it to herd goats, very cute!!!
We had lunch, tamales, which are made of a kind of corn meal dough wrapped around llama meat flavoured with chili and pepper. They are steamed inside corn husks and taste fantastic. We also had rolls filled with cheese, ham and salad. It was great.
After lunch we played soccer with some of the local kids. Dad you will be pleased to know that your lessons paid off and after a couple of practice air kicks, I managed to stop the ball and kick it back quite effectively. While we were playing the oldest little boy suddenly stopped and took off at a run. The kid goats had got on the roof of one of the houses (they are sort of built into the hillside) and were eating the thatch. He chased them off but it was incredibly cute.
We continued on, but not long later we blew a tire. I heard it go and we pulled over. While we were waiting the radio was left on so Anna and I did a bit of ceroc in the desert. It is hard though, dancing on rock and lose soil at altitude.
Our next stop was when we came around a corner and saw a ute which had its back tire out over a ravine. It was mid afternoon and they had been there since last night which must have been freezing. Another tour was just behind us so the drivers, guides and all the guys from the tours got in and helped them lift it out. The women of the tours contributed by clapping and taking photos, we were a big help. They got clear, but hopefully they continued ok because they had kept themselves warm last night by drinking.
We drove on for several hours through some great landscapes. It was beautiful, but very cold. Even in the sun (which is really hot when you are in the car) there are big ice sheets in the creeks. At one of the river flats there were some girls selling things made out of llama wool. Amy and I each got a beanie with ear flaps and Anna got a headband/ear warmer. They also had ostrich feather gloves which were really soft and interesting but we doubted we could get them home through quarantine.
Finally we arrived at our accommodation for the night. It is a little local place, room is ok but it will be absolutely freezing, thank god for thermals and sleeping bags. We have donned our thermals, had a lovely cup of tea (getting to the end of our Twinnings English Breakfast) and are awaiting dinner while the guides fix the tire. It has been a great day.
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