Thursday, June 18, 2009

An unexepected evening of tango

This is the story of how Anna, Amy and I ended up at a gay tango bar …

As mentioned in my last blog, tonight we had booked a tour to learn some tango, have dinner and go to a milonga. I was a bit worried about not having appropriate clothing, having just jeans, casual clothes and flat shoes (I didn't want to risk blisters from the fab new heels). However as it was basically a course for backpackers I needn't have worried.

We booked through our hostel but the class was held at the sister hostel which is around the block. We headed around at 8pm and down to the bar in the hostel where we ordered a couple of caparingas (not as good as the ones in Rio) and the traditional Argentinean drink which is made with herbs and (I’m guessing not traditionally) mixed with coke. I would describe it as tasting somewhat like Yee Ting Medical Oil, a chinese medicine, although strangely it was actually ok to drink.

We sat for awhile then went into the dance area where a small group had gathered. Most were couples but there was a group of American guys so numbers looked reasonably even. Two people came out and demonstrated some tango very nicely then the woman invited us all to the floor. She asked if anyone had any tango experience and Anna and I indicated that we had, then she asked for a volunteer and I found myself propelled forward by Anna. Yes, even in a foreign country I end up the demo in a dance class. This was particularly hilarious as our teacher maybe came up to my shoulder height and of course she was taking the lead.

She did a very basic class, the basic footwork and how to turn was all really, cerrtianly stuff I knew but it was good to jog the brain cells. I had a pretty good time with the teacher as my partner, Anna and Amy ended up with two of the Americans who proved to have varying skills at the tango.

Class over, dinner was served steak and salad, a bit on the ordinary side, then quite a bit later, plates of fruit arrived and then we headed off to the milonga. This is what I had been waiting for, especially after the teacher said I was good at tango. I was really looking forward to dancing with an Argentinean.

We headed to the club, just near our hostel. It was up a set of stairs with a little desk at the top. I did notice a little rainbow flag on the counter as we walked in and the minute we did it was apparent why. There were about 20 couples on the floor and about 18 of them were male couples. I have to say, they were very nice dancers but somewhat disappointing for girls who were hoping to get a tango.

The odds were already stacked against us with girls not allowed to ask men to dance here, but when we realized the guys on our tour were the only ones likely to be hitting the dance floor, it began to get a bit silly. We watched for awhile, and really they were great dancers plus the tango version of Bohemian Rhapsody has to be heard to be believed but it was not the expected end to the evening.

So, tango in Buenos Aires – not quite the expected experience, but still a very funny evening – isn’t that what travel is all about?!

2 comments:

  1. Lisa! Do you know Jess Stephens from Ceroc Melbourne? She has been tangoing in Buenos Aires - and possibly still is. If you can get in touch with her, she'll certainly be able to tell you where to get a great dance. :) Here's her FB profile...

    http://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=575186773&ref=nf

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  2. Lisa, sadly I have left Buenos Aires.. But i can definataley recommend some good Milonga's for you. Do you like traditional or more social?

    I went almost every night to one called La Viruta. Mixed Crowd, friendly atmosphere, occasional live orchestra. Dance floor started around midnight, but then kept going till early hours 4/5 sometimes 6am. Just have an espresso or two (like the locals)
    La Viruta is at Armenia 1366.

    On fridays there's the more traditional milonga at Salon Canning (people dress up, and you sit at tables waiting to be asked to dance by the men) Salon Cannning is around the corner from La Viruta, so it's easy to fit 2 milonga's into one evening. Salon Canning is at Scalabrini Ortiz 1331.

    You should be able to find some more Milonga's in the tango magazines, La Milonga, Dios Tango, Tangauto either at the milongas or at any of the tango shops.

    Wish I was there to personally take you to the milonga's ..Have heaps of fun and enjoy the tango :)
    - jessica :)

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